Cliffs of Cat Ba Island and Lan Ha Bay

We left Hanoi to head to the famous Ha Long Bay area, home to beautiful sandstone cliffs that shoot straight out of the sea. We opted for the do it yourself method, rather than the pre-set boat tour packages that most tourist take and traveled to Cat Ba Island, one of the few inhabited islands in the area, to set up base camp and then take day trips from there into the lesser known, but arguably more beautiful Lan Ha bay.

To get to Cat Ba on your own you have to take a Bus, mini bus, boat and then another mini bus. During one of the many transfers we spotted this guy. Full couch, plus love seat. He had to hop up every once in a while to see where he was going. Moving? Call this guy.

Lan Ha bay and Cat Ba town to the left.

The view from our 3rd story seaside hotel room. Pretty hard to complain for $8 (total) a night.

Sunset over the bay.

Cat Ba town is actually an immensly popular destination for Vietnamese tourists. During the peak season (which we just missed) the Karaoke doesn't stop belting all night from the many floating restaurants.

We took a boat trip out into Lan Ha Bay see the cliffs and do some kayaking. It was breathtaking views 360 degrees for about 7 hours....took quite a few pics.

A nice Danish couple with dry bag offered to be our photographers.

When you see a cave you have to explore.

When a boat has a roof, you have to jump off.

Pockets of floating fishing villages dotted the never ending coves of the bay. The tiny floating houses had these bamboo dock like structures supported by huge blocks of Styrofoam, below the water baskets of rocks weighed down fish traps and hooks. 

Chopstick Island.

The next day we rented a scooter to explore the island's national park and two roads. On the way back through town we managed to drive past the school just as it was getting out,which was the only time we saw crazy Vietnamese traffic on the island. Graham got a first hand experience of weaving a scooter through the mess, which was especially intense with all the tiny children dashing about.   

The trail up to the lookout in the national park. Super muddy, slippery and full of sharp rocks.

The view from the top of the look out, some very dense jungle dotted by lots of steep mountains.

The weather on the second day didn't quite cooperate, so no beach time, but the area was one of most uniquely beautiful we've seen so far and a very peaceful respite from the incessant noise of Hanoi.

Hello Hanoi

We decided to exit Laos by plane after rationalizing that the 27 hour bus from Vientiane, Laos to Hanoi, Vietnam couldn’t possibly be worth the money we’d save. The decision was further influenced by what we called the “80 minute Loa hour” meaning any advertised amount of time was subject to about a 30% increase when you accounted for landslides, extra stops made by the driver and the general pace of Loa life. So that 27 hour bus ride could have easily turned into 35 hours….no thanks. Instead we hopped about one of Loa Airlines cozy prop planes for the 1 hour flight. That’s how bad the roads in Laos are, 1 hour flying = 27 hours by bus.

We arrived in Hanoi and felt a familiar sense of being impressed by the sudden improvement in infrastructure and conditions, similar, but less extreme than what we experienced arriving in Bangkok from India. Along with those varying improvements comes traffic, lots and lots of traffic and among the craziest we’ve experienced so far. Sooooo many motor bikes and scooters weaving and meshing together in an unbelievably fluent (but nail biting) fashion despite the drivers complete disregard for lanes and often for the direction of travel in the lane. Crossing the street takes a bit of getting used to, but it’s actually quite simple, walk in a slow but steady pace into the oncoming hordes of motorbikes, often about 5 abreast in each direction, and the traffic will magically part around you , try to run or dodge your way across and you’re a goner. 

Absolutely anything and everything fits on a scooter in Vietnam, from 5 people to furniture. Not sure what this guy was hauling, but it stuck out a good 4-5 feet on either side of him, can't imagine how he made it through the more crowded streets.

Most of the streets around the old town have themes, this one was shoes. Both sides of the street for about 3 blocks, nothing but footwear, and mostly knock-off. 

 Wireless mic and speakers on wheels = mobile karaoke, he had a friend pushing it down the street behind him while he sung just before this photo. Of course this is necessary.

Various fish in various stages of "fresh"

Chickens and all the parts, every way imaginable. Refrigeration? Never heard of it.

Dried shrimp. You want jumbo, large, medium large, small, extra small, tiny or shrimpy? We have them all.

Roaming kitchen. The pot in the back was full of oil and the little gas stove beside it would cook the ingredients carried in front. Ready to set up on the sidewalk in a moments notice to take orders. 

One of the endless street side "restaurants". Most were family operations that would be set up in front of the daytime business. All you need is tiny plastic tools, tables and a big pot of whatever is cooking. We sat town at one and instead of menu's we were asked: How many?....how many what? Bowls....um two....ok.

One of the two bowls of Pho. Delicious mystery contents included pork, rolled up balls of fish and tofu among the other unknowns. 

Ho Hoan Kiem Lake, the center of old town Hanoi at night.

The local teen scene was gathered around the lake. The seat of choice across Hanoi are these ridiculously short stools that get you about 4 inches off the ground.

Rowdy River and a Cozy Capital

We left the stunning scenery of Nong Khiaw just in time, the village power went out and the rains were coming in hard.  We made the journey back to Luang Prabang, this time the ride was in a cushy mini bus with only a few other people and only took about 2.5 hours. Quite a difference to our 4 hour “jumbo” ride with the locals. From there we continued south to the backpacker’s enclave of Vang Vieng, a town whose only purpose seems to be to entertain the masses of spring break minded 20-somethings that flock there to float the river in inner tubes.  The mini-bus ride from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng was advertised to take 5 hrs….but it took about 8, after we encountered a few of the landslides Laos’ decrepit roads are known for.

When we arrived in Vang Vieng  we hadn’t expect any local culture, but still weren’t quite ready for the degree the town was westernized. Nearly every bar and restaurant had big screens playing non-stop reels of Friends, Family Guy or The Simpsons.  The town stayed open late into the night with clubs and river side bon-fires, which was quite a stark contrast to the otherwise quiet and often (curfew enforced) early ending nightlife of Laos.

Sue decided to rent a mountain bike to explore the beautiful surrounding misty karst, mountains and caves rather than join in the spring break/Sea-fair shenanigans. Graham on the other hand decided to fully embrace the torrid activities of the 20-somehtings  and floated the river, which consisted of a few miles of fast water lined with bamboo bars on either side every 50 yards. The bartenders would throw out lines for you to grab and drag you across the current into the bar. Many had water slides, rope swings, water balloon launchers or any other number of things to entertain (or hurt) the mobs of backpackers. Due to the aquatic nature of the adventure, Graham wasn’t  able to take any photos,  but it was quite a lot of fun…..for exactly one day. Many people had somehow managed to stay put in Vang Vieng for several weeks, floating the river day after day… what a waste of time in a foreign land.

Our “Pink Elephant” that brought 12 of us over the mountains to Vang Vieng, she was a champ in the mud.

The biggest mud slide of our journey. We had to wait about an hour (which was luckily quite short) for the heavy machinery to finish clearing a path. If you’re unlucky enough to hit one of these in the early morning or late evening  you might be waiting there for 5+ hours.

The view from our place on the river, for about $6 a night.

Rice paddies and mountains on Sue’s cycle out in to nature.

Local man hauling some goods up river.

The cliff side containing a creepy, spider infested cave. Yay! 

Besides spiders, there was also a cave Buddha.

The streets of town were lined with little wheeled carts that would dish out the best "pancakes" These two were banana inside with peanut butter outside. Watching them cook we learned the secret....about 2-3 table spoons of butter apiece. Hang over cure anyone?

Sunset from the balcony.

We bid adieu to the mindlessness (or at least a lack of brain cells)  of Vang Vieng and traveled to the Laotian capital of Vientiane. Once again we were a little surprised by the rather small and quaint nature of the county’s “biggest” cities. Despite the oppressive heat we rented some bikes and managed to see some of the country’s more famous monuments and temples as well as some good Indian food (we were getting a little sick of the often basic Lao food) 

The beautiful Pha That Luang. Considered the most important national monument in Laos, as a symbol of both Buddhist religion and the sovereignty of Laos.

Patuxai (Victory Monument) looks a bit like the arc de triumph. Built in 1969 with cement donated by the US for building runways, its since been given the nickname "the vertical runway".

Wat Si Saket, built in 1818, small niches in the inner wall contain more 2000 little images of Buddha and more 300 seated and standing Buddhas line the wall and courtyard, some as old as 1400's.

A couple monks on a walk by the shores of the Mekong.

Next up: Vietnam. 

Northern Loas Mountains in Nong Khiaw

We heard about a little river village nestled in some gorgeous mountains only a few hours from Luang Prabang called Nong Khiaw.  We were told there were several local buses a day so we headed out to the bus station for our next adventure.  We bought tickets and were told to board a sawangthaew, or a jumbo tuck truck, essentially a flatbed truck with bench seating and a canopy cover.  It sunk in that we would be travelling a 4 hour trip snuggled in with crates, locals and luggage.  It was an experience to say the least, but we made it safe and sound.  

Our Sawangthaew made for Lao sized people.  

The view from our hostel on the Nam Ou River

To explore the scenery we rented mountain bikes, we road through some stunning mountains and remote Hmong villages with bamboo huts and rice drying on mats in the road.

Sue climbing the single track trial out of town. 

Right as we decided to turn around, we heard a rustling in the bushes beside the trail. Expecting a dog or possibly a cow to come out, we were about to take off when a little woman with a machete appeared. She’d been cutting sugar cane and she insisted on giving us some. She happily chatted away in Loa while she peeled us each a chunk of sugar cane and showed us how to eat it. Then she went off down the trial and disappeared back into the bushes. Quite unexpected but a sweet treat for the ride home.

Sunset and misty mountains.