Monday, September 26, 2011

Hello Hanoi

We decided to exit Laos by plane after rationalizing that the 27 hour bus from Vientiane, Laos to Hanoi, Vietnam couldn’t possibly be worth the money we’d save. The decision was further influenced by what we called the “80 minute Loa hour” meaning any advertised amount of time was subject to about a 30% increase when you accounted for landslides, extra stops made by the driver and the general pace of Loa life. So that 27 hour bus ride could have easily turned into 35 hours….no thanks. Instead we hopped about one of Loa Airlines cozy prop planes for the 1 hour flight. That’s how bad the roads in Laos are, 1 hour flying = 27 hours by bus.

We arrived in Hanoi and felt a familiar sense of being impressed by the sudden improvement in infrastructure and conditions, similar, but less extreme than what we experienced arriving in Bangkok from India. Along with those varying improvements comes traffic, lots and lots of traffic and among the craziest we’ve experienced so far. Sooooo many motor bikes and scooters weaving and meshing together in an unbelievably fluent (but nail biting) fashion despite the drivers complete disregard for lanes and often for the direction of travel in the lane. Crossing the street takes a bit of getting used to, but it’s actually quite simple, walk in a slow but steady pace into the oncoming hordes of motorbikes, often about 5 abreast in each direction, and the traffic will magically part around you , try to run or dodge your way across and you’re a goner. 


Absolutely anything and everything fits on a scooter in Vietnam, from 5 people to furniture. Not sure what this guy was hauling, but it stuck out a good 4-5 feet on either side of him, can't imagine how he made it through the more crowded streets.

Most of the streets around the old town have themes, this one was shoes. Both sides of the street for about 3 blocks, nothing but footwear, and mostly knock-off. 

 Wireless mic and speakers on wheels = mobile karaoke, he had a friend pushing it down the street behind him while he sung just before this photo. Of course this is necessary.

Various fish in various stages of "fresh"

Chickens and all the parts, every way imaginable. Refrigeration? Never heard of it.


Dried shrimp. You want jumbo, large, medium large, small, extra small, tiny or shrimpy? We have them all.

Roaming kitchen. The pot in the back was full of oil and the little gas stove beside it would cook the ingredients carried in front. Ready to set up on the sidewalk in a moments notice to take orders. 

One of the endless street side "restaurants". Most were family operations that would be set up in front of the daytime business. All you need is tiny plastic tools, tables and a big pot of whatever is cooking. We sat town at one and instead of menu's we were asked: How many?....how many what? Bowls....um two....ok.

One of the two bowls of Pho. Delicious mystery contents included pork, rolled up balls of fish and tofu among the other unknowns. 

Ho Hoan Kiem Lake, the center of old town Hanoi at night.

The local teen scene was gathered around the lake. The seat of choice across Hanoi are these ridiculously short stools that get you about 4 inches off the ground.

1 comment:

  1. Enjoy the awesome Pho! my trip there started my addiction...

    ReplyDelete